The sun has been in hiding this summer–but that doesn’t effect the waves. Surfing conditions have been pretty good–for this time of year at least.
Surfers are an ever-present sight at San Diego beaches–part of the landscape and culture. They often go unnoticed–by choice really. A surfer just wants to get in the water, paddle out and wait for a good set. Surfer’s don’t need attention–just waves.
They sit on their boards, mostly quiet, scanning the horizon for telltale signs of the right swell. Leave them alone and they will leave you alone. Encroach on their space at your own peril though. The breaks are sacred–not for swimmers or body-boarders. You need to know this if you visit San Diego beaches.
Surfer’s stand up for what’s right: waves, clean water, clean beaches and the protection of a culture that must continue on and never die. Surfing is more than clothing styles–remember this.
Next time you’re at the beach take a moment, look for the surfers and remember that they are a part of the beach just like the sand and water.
John Rogers (photograpy by Francha Cavitt)